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TMCNet:  Milwaukee Journal Sentinel Rise and Dine column

[January 11, 2013]

Milwaukee Journal Sentinel Rise and Dine column

Jan 11, 2013 (Milwaukee Journal Sentinel - McClatchy-Tribune Information Services via COMTEX) -- Downtown has its swirls of midday activity on the weekends: an event at the Delta Center, college basketball at the BMO Harris Bradley Center.

One of those shuttles ferrying fans to the games stops at Trinity Three Irish Pubs, where brunch is served Saturday and Sunday.

The brunch menu is brief, just nine breakfast dishes (although the full regular menu also is served).

But the dishes I tried were solid, and much improved over a visit some years ago.

Trinity serves a couple of varieties of eggs Benedict, including one with grilled salmon fillets ($10.50). Ordering Benedicts always fills me with some suspense: Will the eggs be good, or will they be overcooked and rubbery These were perfect.

Eggs were cooked right every time for every dish we ordered, no small feat.

They're served poached as well with the corned beef hash ($9.50), and I liked Trinity's rendition.

Hash too often is served as a dried-out, disconnected plate of corned beef and potatoes.

Trinity binds the dish with a very light white sauce that hints of mustard -- very tasty. The potatoes are cut fine, and so is the corned beef; that beef could be a little chunkier, though, and command more of a presence.

The fried potatoes served on the side of some of the brunch plates and with the Irish breakfast are dressed in the same sauce, with bits of red and green onion. They're positively addictive.

That Irish breakfast ($11) didn't have all the traditional elements; some might miss the baked beans and black and white puddings. But no one could say it isn't enough food, with two eggs over easy, potatoes, sausage links, Irish bacon, a small roasted tomato and toast.

That should sustain anyone for the duration of a basketball game.

Hot, strong coffee matters at brunch, and my regular ol' coffee was not so hot. Even thermal carafes won't keep coffee steaming forever, especially if carafes haven't been primed first. (Trinity is far from alone on this; lukewarm coffee is rampant lately. Fortunately, it's an easy fix.) This being a pub, and this being Milwaukee, expect to see brunch drinks. Nice spice carries the Bloody Mary, and Trinity pours a couple of versions of an Irish coffee as well.

Contact Carol Deptolla at (414) 224-2841 or at cdeptolla@journalsentinel.com.

Listen to dining critic Carol Deptolla's At the Table reports on WTMJ-AM (620) at 8:22 a.m. and 3:40 p.m. Fridays, and at 7:20 a.m. Sunday.

TRINITY THREE IRISH PUBS 125 E. Juneau Ave.

(414) 278-7033 trinitythreeirishpubs.com Brunch is served : 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday-Sunday Prices: $8-$11 Parking: On street Wheelchair access: Yes, at entry and restrooms Payment: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover ___ (c)2013 the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel Visit the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel at www.jsonline.com Distributed by MCT Information Services

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